Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo
75cl * 13% ABV * Rioja, Spain
Lopez de Heredia famously age all of its output far longer than their contemporaries - even their white wines - in order to develop the complex, oxidative aromas and flavours that come from extended maturation in oak and in bottle, and ensure that they are quite ready to drink. A deep garnet, with a fading rim indicative of its age, it requires a short decant to get the most out of it, but with air soft red cherry, vanilla, leather, olive, liquorice - its complexity knows no bounds. Relatively light for those accustomed to modern big and bold Rioja, but straddles somewhere in style between the Rhone and Burgundy. A long-lived, highly praised wine of which its devotees just can't get enough.
2012 was hailed as a 'very good' vintage in Rioja. There was a distinct lack of rainfall throughout the region and high spring temperatures resulted in an earlier harvest. As a result of the dryness and heat, the bunches were much smaller but the juice was excellently concentrated and complex, creating a beautiful wine.
This wine is delicious, a feast for the senses. The nose, as mentioned above, is alluring and the palate doesn't disappoint. Cranberry, blueberry, orange zest, green peppercorns and a hint of spiced bread, like a cinnamon loaf or pumpkin bread. Positively autumnal. The finish is long with tertiary notes and a rich umami character that invites you back for more.
A perfect partner to a leg of new season lamb stuffed with wild garlic, rosemary and anchovies. This will also pair beautifully with a Fabada stew, a white bean, chorizo and black pudding stew indicative of the Spanish countryside.
Decant for at least 1 hour. Serve between 18ºC and 20ºC.
Drinking window: now-2037
'The 2012 Viña Tondonia Reserva comes from a very dry year, with 25% less rain than the average, resulting in lower yields of very healthy grapes that delivered wines with nice balance between alcohol and polyphenols, making it very apt for the aging in barrel. It had a slightly longer élevage in barrel, six years. The wine is aromatic with a developed profile, spicy and tertiary (forest floor, a touch of brick dust and iodine), complex and nuanced. The palate is full and round, with polished tannins and a long, dry finish. I has a textbook Tondonia nose and profile.' Luis Gutierrez, RobertParker.com, Feb. 2024 - 95 points